Heating News – December 2018 – Zombie Apocalypse Edition

Heating News December 2018

Zombie Apocalypse edition.

We’ve covered the heating of old farmhouses so much already that if you are not in a house that is warm, cosy and cheap to run then you haven’t been paying attention. What about the Zombie Apocalypse though? If there is a power cut, all heat pumps, gas and oil boilers and most PV systems don’t work so a wood burner will be handy when the grid gets hacked, whether by Zombies, Russians or just bad weather. Connected to a heat bank that wood burner will provide heat, cooking, functioning radiators so not just a nice thing to have but maybe even a life saver.

But enough about that. Not everyone has a leaky old house with a siphon attached to their wallet. The other end of the spectrum – a Passivhaus – is pretty astonishing with heat losses so low that just by turning on the lights, TV and computer would pretty much cover the heating needs.

 

insulation matters

This diagram shows how energy demand falls as insulation values rise. The Passivhaus demands are so low that heating is hardly needed. It’s not just running costs that are trivialised. The actual build costs are reduced because there is no need for under-floor heating and no powerful heat sources to drive it. Usually a small heat pump using no more power than an electric kettle will be more than adequate.  This is offset by the cost of extra insulation but the savings are there forever and the Government RHI will pay for the heat pump too.

So what is a Passivhaus?

It’s all about insulation and airtightness. Insulation of walls floor and roof have to be slightly better than current UK regs, but not by that much, and the building must be a bit more airtight than usual but again not by that much. Heat loss is measured by U values (which we’ll examine below) and airtightness is measured in air changes per hour. Basically a fan blows up the pressure to 50Pa for a maximum of 0.6 air changes per hour and then the same again but with a negative pressure. A Pascal is the pressure of one Newton/sq metre so a bit like a minced apple spread across your desk.  50Pa is very low so with careful building and lots of tape the standard is achievable. Sealed doors and windows will close with more of a ‘schmwuk’ noise than a clunk and the house will probably feature triple glazed windows and mechanical ventilation with heat recovery MVHR. Passivhaus gradings relate to how much renewable energy they give back so for the top tier ‘Super’ the roof will be heavily covered by solar panels to make 120kW/m2/annum (footprint). The overall target U value for a Passivhaus is 0.15W/m2K so lets see how that compares with traditional practices.

U-Values

This value relates to the ability to flow heat energy across a surface so it is measured in Watts per square metre and takes into account the temperature difference across the surface, so W/m2K. So a Passivhaus with an external shell of 800m2 and U=0.15 would need 1.2kW when the outside temperature is 10 degrees colder. This ties closely to the Passivhaus limit of 15kW.hr/m2/annum (on the footprint) for total energy consumption.

Traditional practice U values  W/m2.K

Brick wall                          2

Cavity wall                        1.5      Note: this is 10 times worse than the example above

Insulated cavity wall      0.18

Concrete                             1.5

Single glazed                    4.8 – 5.8

Double glazed                  1.2 – 3.7

Triple glazed                     < 1

Wooden door                    3

Note that some popular modern building methods are not really up to scratch and need extra insulation to get towards Passivhaus. Eg Durisol insulated concrete forms 0.15    Structurally insulated panels 0.14. Adding extra layers of insulation is needed and to get the final U value you add the reciprocals of the U values of the layers then take the reciprocal of that for the final figure.

Current SAP rules

Wall      0.18

Floor   0.13

Roof    0.13

Glass   1.4

No doubt you have noted that glass is a five lane highway for heat loss especially on the North side of the house. South facing glass is different because it behaves just like a solar panel and gives back much more than it loses. For example the daily solar insolation average in Kw.hrs per square metre (Brighton) is: Nov 1.7, Dec 1.14, Jan 1.43, Feb 2.17. The obvious conclusion is that lots of south facing glass is often good enough to heat the house especially if accompanied with high thermal mass floors/walls and covered at night with shutters and curtains.

Now we have a house that barely needs heating and sells power to the grid but there will be days when some heat is required. The bills here are going to be so low that the choice matters less, but for a small house I’d go for a low powered heat pump because:

Heat pump power

The RHI payments are good, it’s ecologically sound, it runs on similar power to an electric kettle and the PV panels will run it free on most days.  Air conditioning can be incorporated when partnered with fan-coil units. N.B. There is no RHI for aircon enabled heat pumps so a separate chiller unit would be required.

What about a wood burner? – well of course, we love them and there is the Zombie Apocalypse looming.

DIY fan-coil unit

DIY fan-coil unit

No underfloor heating, no radiators, it has to be fan-coil units. There is a full description of the Original Twist version here.

It’s a cheap and easy DIY project.

 

1st year with Google Home and Chromecast

Verdict: So good we have 3. Main uses, TV control, intercom, encyclopedia, alarm.

Radio? They’re obsolete

Remember when a DAB radio with preset buttons was a Christmas present favourite? Well those days, in a flash, have gone. A Google Home will tune in practically any radio station; all you have to do is ask. Turn up the volume? “Hey Google, turn up the volume”  “Hey Google set an alarm” So it’s a radio but, of course, so much more with your Spotify playlists to hand, and via Chromecast, control of the TV, Netflix, YouTube … etc … but you know all that. It’s just fascinating how as an almost inconsequential aside this device has consigned an ubiquitous bit of kit to history. Will the next generations even know what a radio is.

That’s all for now. If you need advice, a stove or a heatbank in UK, France or Italy please contact me on the form below.

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DIY fan-coil heater

DIY fan-coil heater

DIY fan-coil heater

And actually the best fan coil heater regardless of price.

If you are wondering how a heat pump might (or might not) work at all with your old radiators and pipes this might give you the answer, and it won’t cost too much

You might be surprised to know that if your house build is anywhere near Passivhaus standards then minimal heat demand makes underfloor heating a waste of time and money. Well, that’s a big saving so bring it on but what to do instead?

Underfloor heating did away with horrible radiators, and we don’t want them back, so that just leaves warm air blowers such as kickplate heaters – i.e. water powered puffer heaters..

On the walls without plaster theme here I proposed a kickplate heater, in the lower cupboard part, to give an occasional guff of hot air and for slightly under £200 you can do just that. However these neat little units aren’t perfect. They have to shift a lot of air through a small aperture so they are intrinsically noisy, draughty and the heat exchanger, or a filter, can clog with dust and pet hair fairly quickly. Larger versions are available but they aren’t so neat and they are much more expensive.

So here’s the Original Twist fan coil heater which is cheaper, quieter and more reliable. Double click this picture for a better look.  Can’t see the heater? Neat huh.

cupboards with fan-coil heater built in.

Lets assume that the low cupboard bit of your wall is made of typical 720mm x 300mm kitchen carcass units. A pair of them 600mm wide with a large slot cut out of the inner sides allows a 1000mm x 500mm x 70mm double radiator to fit inside (£48 Screwfix). Each of the top shelves is fitted just low enough to mount a 140mm fan from a computer (£10 – 20 Amazon etc) and these gently blow air past the radiator and out of the bottom. You can decide where the air inlet goes: probably top front but a wall panel channelling much warmer air from ceiling height is worth a thought. Note that this is much smaller and neater than the huge radiators you would be trading up to if you were trying to make a heat pump conversion work.

When paired with a suitable heat pump this unit also does air conditioning if that’s what you want hence the length of plastic guttering under the radiator to catch any condensation.

N.B. The Heat Pump Incentive does not support heat pumps with integrated aircon but you can still get it if you use a separate chiller unit – see the Originaltwist hybrid heat pump concept which does chilled water as a free extra. Before you get too enthused about that though, have a think about a separate mini-split aircon unit (a very cheap heat pump) which delivers hot or cold air with a much simpler installation. Cold air flows across the floor so spreads around the house surprisingly well. You don’t need multiple sources like you do for heating.

You might want to kill airborne pathogens. There is plenty of space in the box for a pair of UV lamps but if you do fit them then avoid or wrap PEX water pipes because UV will kill them too. Fitting UV tubes in the top sections with the fans underneath is the way to go.

Controls:  The fans are switched on automatically when either hot or chilled water arrives at the radiator. An ESCO solar controller does all that for £45.50 or about half that with a frost stat and a 2 pole thermostat. If you are omitting the aircon side then any solar controller will do the job simply enough. You’ll also need a variable resistor for speed control. The fans are 12v so you’ll need a power supply and, like the fans, these are cheap PC components. Remember that the LED strip lights in your integrated beam floor could be 12V and might like to share that power supply.

Cleaning:  Open the doors and Hoover it out – easy.

And that’s it really. A few simple components all easily obtained and making the perfect, reliable fan-coil unit. When turned down to essentially silent the fan pair will move about 100cfm and the heat output will be between 1 and 2kW depending on the water supply temperature. Turning up the fans will double this.

You might wonder why all this effort gives you anything better than the same radiator fitted as normal. The answer is that heat pumps don’t work efficiently at the 60c+ normally used with radiators. While under-floor heating is the best at very low temperatures a fan-coil unit works reasonably well at 40c. The only reason our unit has a radiator is that with all the fins in a double radiator you get a high surface area for not much money. The heat delivery couldn’t be more different. A radiator wafts hot air straight up to the ceiling where it tends to remain – with replacement  air moving across the floor as a cold draught. A fan-coil on the other hand, blows warm air across the floor where it mixes with cooler air to give a faster and more comfortable heating experience.

Some extra mods

If you want to direct warm air somewhere in particular, patio doors for example, then a row of slats on the exit slot can send the air to the side. To go further with directing air flow you can also fit a duct or two to the bottom of the unit. This might be useful if you were trying to warm the air near those patio doors. In a new build you could fit a drain channel beside the doors (those ones with the clip-on metal tops) and blow hot air into the ends of the channel. That same channel could also be used as a handy route for the heating pipework and as an added benefit it makes the channel into a radiator in its own right.

If you have an MVHR system in mind you could run your return duct into the top of this unit with the benefit of hiding the outlet and getting a free blow from the MVHR fan.

What about the bathroom?

Now we’re talking. The perfect place to  have hot  air blowing especially when you are drying yourself. For a start I’d turn the unit on its side so the air is blown from a vertical slot, then I’d go one step further and have a pair of them in a corner so you step into a sort of Dyson hot air blaster, like a giant hand dryer. Smaller bathrooms could have an opposing pair. Electricity in the bathroom!  No worries there, it’s all 12v.

insulation matters

Have a look at this chart on heating costs for various house types to appreciate why a Passivhaus with a small heat pump and some fan-coil units could be the way to go. You’ll see that the ASHP can meet the Passivhaus demand for almost no cost. Indeed if the ASHP is connected to PV panels then the running cost of the house will be close to zero. This chart is out of date now. I did a new one in October 2022 when all the new rates were fixed. here

The results are startlingly different so take a look and see if you agree with my comments.

I guess you might be in a state of shock now. Thousands saved on your heating strategy, the government might buy you a heat pump and air-conditioning can be a simple addition.

For more money saving shocks check out more building ideas on LIST OF POSTS.

If you’ve built this please let me know on the comments form below. We’d all love to see pictures.

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Kenya – Turi reunion

Kenya reunion
December 5th 2018 – Wednesday
12pm  pub, Chelsea

Kenya watu at the Surprise

Well that was fun – Please get in touch for the next one, maybe next Summer.

Were you at school in Kenya circa 1955 – 1965?  Turi maybe. Come and meet some old friends next time.
Where are you?    Susan Casson, Gill Neville,  Arthur and Alice Brown, Simon Jefferson, Geoffrey Peatling, Gail Nichols, Pippa and Fiona Mills, Charlotte Gaitskell, Paul Skinner, John Sutton, Timothy Upton, Janet Lloyd, Robbie Godkin, Elspeth McPherson, Richard Lowenstein, Liz Phelips, Johnnie Sherwood, Jane Faber, Alan Riley, Fraser Roberts, Belinda Foxon, Susan Kennedy.
Let me know if you can come .. contact form below.
Salaamu
Patrick Littlehales