Off-peak energy storage for cheaper heating

High temperature heat pumps are a game changer. How about a sub £500 heating bill for the whole winter? Higher temperatures present a new opportunity to store cheap energy in a heat store (a large buffer tank).

Off-peak electricity costs a third of the day rate and that allows heat pump energy multiplication to produce unbelievably low-cost heating (like 2.5p/kW.hr).  A heat store tank can time shift the night rates to the following day with that energy simply dispensed to underfloor heating and fan-coils by blending it back down to the required temperatures. With energy this cheap the inefficiencies of large buffer tanks and blending are hardly relevant.

Large tanks are better for high temperature heat pumps which don’t like short cycling and prefer a large volume of water to chew on so that’s another win.

For example: Over 5 hours a 12kW heat pump can place 60kW.hrs in 1,476 litres of water raised from 30c to 65c. As the model lower down shows, that costs just £300 over 200 days of winter. Similarly, a 1,000 litre tank, plus a large hot water cylinder and a heated floor slab make a good combination to store this night time bounty ready for the next day.

Cheaper than a battery

A 1,000 litre tank can store 40kW hours and costs about £1,500. A battery that can make 40kW.hrs (via a heat pump) would cost twice as much and could wear out after 10 years. Water lasts forever so works well as a storage medium; it doesn’t even ignite and burn your house down. Having said that, batteries are still very useful and will become strategically important when you access the very large one in your car. The battery is the top performer in the chart below because the heat pump will run a better COP during the day.

N.B The 7.5p off-peak rate is for electric cars but economy 7 is a workable alternative.

A much bigger heat pump

In order to bank the entire heating load over just a few night hours the heat pump will have to be significantly bigger than normal. 12kW (delivered) is a good place to start especially if only single-phase electricity is available. The Samsung EHS Gen7 R290 12kW is a good example.

Additional power

The calculated heat loss of the house must be matched by the heat pump power (to get the grant) and, on paper, a big heat pump will easily meet that requirement but the stored energy may not always meet the actual demands of the day. Cheap power is time limited rather than power limited.

If there is the occasional shortfall the heat pump is still there to give a powerful boost on that exceptionally cold day – however there is a better way.

Part of a sensible strategy is to have another smaller heat pump (like a mini-split air to air) that runs mainly free off solar panels. Obviously this helps to keep the electricity costs down but also gives the option of topping up when necessary at minimal cost. The blown air of a mini-split is immensly useful for laundry drying and the cooling feature gets the air-con requirement largely sorted too. Forget the daft headline costs of regular heat pumps – mini-splits can be bought for around £600 and you’d get one fully installed for under £2,000. With a typical consumption of around 1kW the mini-split will nearly always run free off the panels whereas the big heat pump would cost precious pennies to fire up.

Domestic hot water

To store off peak energy the 300 litre domestic hot water cylinder has standard 3msq coils for heat pump use. It may require a trickle charge during the day and instead of repeatedly firing up the heat pump an EDDI solar diverter tops it up via a Willis remote immersion heater (better for stratification and servicing if you were wondering). The EDDI captures even tiny excesses throughout the day to produce a higher temperature and the lost exports are about equal to the cost of running the heat pump.

System benefits

Water is usually hot enough to make towel rails work properly.

A large domestic hot water cylinder needs fewer daytime top ups if any.

The big heat pump gives faster DHW recovery times (if needed).

Fan-coils take from the hotter level of the heat bank.

Fan-coils can tolerate high temperatures so a boost mode is possible. Eg. 5 mins of full power on startup to give fantastic response times.

Heating can be zoned without complications.

Off-peak electricity is mainly renewable so this system is as green as Kermit.

Daily characteristics

In the morning the tanks will be hot and ready. The bathrooms will be toasty with the towel rails on full pelt and the floors heated. The bedroom fan-coils instantly transform a cold room into a warm one and there’s loads of hot water for showers. Downstairs the floors are already warm.

The towel rails stay on for a while but all else takes a rest until the floor slab downstairs calls for a top up from the big tank. With a bit of sunlight the EDDI starts to reheat the hot water tank and the mini-split might be able to run free.

At this point the big heat pump has not run at all, at any time, during the day. However, by the evening the temperature is getting low in the big tank, the floors can continue to keep warm even with water down to 25c but the fan-coils may need a last-minute boost from the big heat pump. UFH in bathrooms is a good counter to the possible end of day shortfall. Note that this is all fine tuning to avoid costs; if more heat is required then the system can perform just like any other and in fact even better because it’s so powerful.

Controls

Everything is much simplified with no interlinking of controls.

The heat pump is allowed windows of operation on a timer and tank thermostats.

The night time set point would be 67C and 45C for the day – settable on the heat pump.

The UFH is timed and controlled by a programmable thermostat – an ESBE mixer adds weather compensation.

Fan-coils (OriginalTwist DIY units of course) are timed and thermostatically controlled locally.

Simplicity

There are many options to add sophistication to this system; weather compensation, ESBE electronic temperature reducers, blending down for fan-coils, fan-coils boost feature, air source GSHP boosting (as per the OriginalTwist hybrid concept), batteries.

All should be weighed by the PV test: would the money be better spent on more PV panels?

ZERO COST HEATING

As you increase the size of a solar array so the energy bills fall and the export tally rises. For some well insulated houses the income will pay the electricity bills – ZERO COST heating has just become easier.

From the chart below you can work out how many kW.hrs your current system requires over the winter. Just compare each £1,000 bar with your own bills. 25 -30,000 kW.hrs would be normal. Ultra insulated homes are nearer to 15,000 and only about a third of the way up a £1,000 bar. Note how the off-peak system is easily twice as good as anything else. Want a laugh? Compare direct electric resistance heating with the off peak system.

Just how cheap for 200 days of winter?

The Original Twist model of this entire system looks something like this:

A 12kW ASHP running for 300 minutes a night charges a 1,000 litre tank, a 300 litre hot water cylinder and the floor slab.

Over 200 days of winter this makes  12,000kW.hrs for £300. No, that’s not a mistake, £300 for 200 days!

The 3kW mini-split adds 1,000 kW.hrs for £125 (half from PV).

Total cost for 13,000 kW.hrs is £425 and less with large PV.

The same energy would cost £570 more with conventional daytime heating.

You’ll see on the chart below how night time use of an ASHP (blue line) is particularly disadvantageous compared to a GSHP (black line) which doesn’t really see any significant changes in source temperatures. From that point of view it might seem that this system will be optimised by using a GSHP for the night runs and an ASHP for the day time back up.

The GSHP will not suffer the defrosting cycles which will eat up into the precious off-peak time and the COP will be excellent particularly if the Originaltwist air/ground hybrid idea is incorporated..

You won’t find an R290 high temperature GSHP: that’s because they are fitted indoors and spilled R290 is toxic. The 10kW IVT E11 GSHP might be a contender though. The maximum temperature is lower though so you’d need more water storage; probably a pair of tanks.

Conclusion

This idea can be scaled and tweaked to suit individual requirements but the underlying message is convincing.

Off-peak electricity can be time shifted with large amounts of water to dramatically cut heating costs.

A concrete slab floor also stores heat usefully so a boost at the last hours of off-peak could be part of the mix.

N.B. If you want the grant, with it’s strict rules, you have to ‘design’ the system for normal efficient heat pump systems and then run it ‘inefficiently’ at night when all the techies have paid up and gone.

Note that a heat pump costs about £5,000 so when you are quoted £15,000, guess who really gets the grant money!

These ideas are now wrapped up in The Grand Designs Heating System and for bigger properties in Big house heating system.

Heating News – Free or Freeze

Energy price comparison

Well, the Ofgem cap for October is out and also, over the last few months. various energy prices have changed quite significantly. So, allowing for the likely efficiencies of the boilers, stoves etc here is the latest chart showing how much energy you get for £1,000. Most houses will need 15 – 20,000kW.hrs over the winter so you can guess the level on (or off) the chart where your house is.

Electricity

Still the most expensive energy you can buy by miles despite a slight fall. Solar panels are still the best way forward and payback is quick if you don’t have too many.

Heat pumps

Now slightly worse than natural gas so there is little incentive to go along with the Government push on boiler replacement. Of course, if you have access to solar power then the picture gets a bit better but remember that in the winter it’s dark and cold by tea time.

Natural gas

As this is what most homes have, and it works very well, there is no great rush to change. An upgrade to a condensing boiler might be timely if you are still nursing an old boiler. (insert predictable joke here)

LPG

The price has risen about 16% to put LPG on a par with oil but a lot depends on the efficiency and running costs of the boilers in question. I once had an LPG gas boiler that was never serviced for 9 years so I could have replaced it on the money saved – that’s not a recommendation, just making a point.

Oil

There have been some big swings over the last year but it looks OK for the time being although boiler efficiency could make the picture worse. Old oil boilers can be very inefficient and servicing and sludge cleaning costs can add up. If an upgrade is needed then LPG should be the top consideration.

See https://www.boilerjuice.com/heating-oil-prices/ for an oil price chart.

Wood

I just bought a huge load of about 6 cubic metres for £500 and the result looks good on the chart although there will be significant variation depending on weight and moisture content and type of wood. I used 70% efficiency for a stove but of course an open fire would slay the calculations, maybe even down to zero gain.

Solar panels

Still worth it? Depends on what you pay of course but a rough estimate goes like this. 3 panels cost £1,200 and make 1,200kW.hrs a year worth 27p x 1,200 or £324. So, your money back in 4 years then. In practice it’s hard to consume all you make, even with a solar diverter driving your immersion heater, and self-consumption falls off with even more panels. Even so it looks like a good plan and the gas boiler will get negligible use in the summer months. You can, however, bump up self-consumption to 100% with batteries, whether car or domestic.

Batteries

They are simply wonderful but the trouble is the cost. Once your electricity bills have been eased by solar panels the remaining savings produced by batteries give rather extended payback periods in line with the life expectancy of the batteries themselves. Cheap energy deals from Octopus and others make for some interesting calculations though. If say you paid 9.5p/kW.hr overnight and used it later driving a mini-split heat pump then the resultant heat would have cost you under 4p/kW.hr. That’s astonishing but you’d need a very big and expensive battery to make it work for a reasonable length of time. Hold on though – electric cars have huge batteries!

This is all very exciting and as soon as your electric car battery can be utilised in the home a new era will arrive. A Nissan Leaf battery is about the same as 4 Tesla Power Walls! If this piques your interest then check out the car battery maths below.

Car battery maths – halve your bills

Your 7kW car charger charges your Nissan Leaf for 6 hours every night on Eon’s 7 hour offer (Octopus only offer 4 hours). The other hour is for the car itself and the 6 are for use back in the house.

Each day we can use 40kW.hrs in the battery to run a small 5kW heat pump for 8 hours and on a COP of 3 that’s 120kW.hrs a day. Totalling 24,000kW.hrs over the 200 day winter that will be more than enough for most homes.

24,000kW.hrs would have cost you just £760 but the chances are you could get under that.

Without any further key bashing the outcome is that your heating bill will be more than halved.

This is such a game changer that it must be part of your future heating strategy and that means you must have a heat pump of some sort even if it’s a mini-split or two. A regular heat pump with a mini-split added as a gap filler would be perfect.

And let’s not forget

Mini-split heat pumps

Mini-splits are just small air to air heat pumps which are easy to install and you could get one fully installed for about £1,200. Yes, a proper heat pump for £1,200.

I’ve said this before but it bears repeating.

My mini-split has been running for over a year so I can tell you how it’s been.

In the shoulder months the PV panels (4kW) run it free a lot of the time

It often draws well under a kilowatt so we run it when needed without worrying about the cost too much

Low power means the solar panels have it covered very often

It often provides enough background heat to enable the main heating to be left off

It blows hot air so makes a great laundry drying machine.

Summer air conditioning is really good, cooling the whole ground floor

It actually cost under £1,000 installed and that took just 4 hours

It was bought from Saturn Sales who gave good advice and delivered on time

Conclusions

It’s still a good idea to go solar. Check out micro-inverters on the panels, a concept that makes sense – ‘Gary does solar’ on YouTube will explain all and get you £50 off if you change to Octopus.

After solar get a mini-split or two. Your bills will plummet and your comfort levels will rise.

Start thinking about an electric car with V2H charging. That is still only a Nissan Leaf as far as I know.

It’s early days but with some solar exports and a bit of insulation, might that car battery get you close to ZERO-COST heating?

While I hope my figures are accurate, please do your own research before making any commitments.

Comment on electric cars.

We’ve seen a massive depreciation hit as electric cars transition from very expensive to near parity with normal cars. A series of price cuts from Tesla, to the chagrin of current owners, and now a wave of reasonably priced EVs such as the MG4 and the rather fabulous Volvo EX30 are setting the tone. The high cost of batteries will halt the slide for a while, and the car makers will have to try to settle into profitability, so it is probably safe to enter the market now. Vehicle to home charging capability should be high on the options list when you do. Before you dive in perhaps consider locking in a nice old-school classic for the potential appreciation when it becomes clear that they are the last that will ever be made.

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